In the secluded Vall de Ribes in the Spanish Pyrenees, nature offers a rare and intimate experience for the few British tourists who visit annually—just 1,503 according to the Catalan tourism board. Amid dry oak forests and wildflower-laced trails, the area reveals an unexpected vibrancy. While on a peaceful hike, a visitor was startled by a hissing sound, only to discover it came not from the ground but from a nearby isard—a goat-antelope species native to the region. The animal’s sharp horns and assertive stance made for a tense standoff before it finally retreated into the underbrush. The moment, tinged with both awe and a hint of fear, underscored the wild character of the Pyrenean woods. This initial encounter was only the beginning. More isards appeared over the following days, alongside a marmot, reinforcing the area’s appeal as a wildlife haven.
The journey through this hidden corner of the Girona Pyrenees was part of a walking holiday organized by Inntravel, which specializes in single-centre vacations. The trip was based in the town of Ribes de Freser, known for its mineral water and the iconic rack railway to Vall de Núria. Avoiding the hassle of packing and hotel transfers, travelers could simply explore the surroundings at their own pace. The journey began with a comfortable train ride from Barcelona, culminating in a warm welcome from Marta Perramon, director of the Resguard del Vents hotel. Marta’s family ties to the land were evident as she pointed out her father’s nearby farm, where she still lends a hand.
The rack railway ride to Vall de Núria is a standout experience. Ascending over 3,000 feet, the train cuts through tunnels and curves along a turquoise reservoir before revealing the breathtaking valley. It’s a moment that draws audible admiration from fellow passengers. Despite the valley’s beauty, the area remains lightly trafficked. While Ripollès county welcomes over 323,000 tourists each year, only a small fraction come from the UK. This means hikers can often enjoy complete solitude on the trails, encountering only local wildlife. With expertly plotted routes from Inntravel, the visitor found solitude in nature, uninterrupted by crowds.
The appeal extends beyond the scenery. Catalonia has been named the World Region of Gastronomy for 2025, and meals in the region reflect that title. Dining at the hotel restaurant revealed a culinary style focused on bringing out the best of local produce—whether through rustic dishes like noodles with pigs’ trotters at La Taverna de Nit, or hearty plates of black pudding and pork crackling atop a bed of greens. These rich meals seemed designed to inspire another day of exploration and walking in the fresh mountain air.
Mornings in Ribes de Freser begin with a melodic dawn chorus, occasionally punctuated by the whistle of the rack railway. The area offers numerous hiking options, many following historic pilgrimage routes. The writer’s final excursion took them northward to Puigcerdà, a picturesque town on the Spanish-French border. Along the way, trails passed old hermitages and joined the Camino del Segre, a segment of the famed Camino de Santiago. The border itself felt almost symbolic, marked only by a narrow path among blooming poppies, rather than by fences or guards.
Upon returning to Puigcerdà, there was ample time before the next train. This unhurried schedule allowed for leisurely exploration of the town’s cobbled streets, a visit to the Campanar de Santa Maria for panoramic views, and a glass of celebratory cava in the main square. The moment encapsulated the essence of the trip—unforced, scenic, and full of small pleasures.
For those seeking to experience the tranquil beauty and rich culture of the Pyrenees, Inntravel’s A Stroll in the Pyrenees offers a tailored approach. Priced from £1,050 per person, the package includes seven nights’ bed and breakfast accommodation, three dinners, two picnic lunches, detailed walking notes, and maps. Flights and transfers are additional. The trip is available until 26 October 2025, and again from 1 April to 25 October 2026.
Travelers can reach Ribes de Freser by flying into Barcelona from multiple UK cities. From Barcelona Sants Station, the R3 train provides a direct 2.5-hour journey to the mountain town, setting the stage for a peaceful and immersive escape in one of Spain’s most quietly enchanting regions.
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