At just 23 years old, Alaskan climber Balin Miller has achieved what many seasoned alpinists would only dream of: a bold solo ascent of the 9,000-foot Slovak Direct (M6 WI6 A2) on Denali, the highest peak in North America. The climb, completed over three days, marked the climax of Miller’s 53-day alpine season on Alaska’s glaciers this spring—a period he lightheartedly described as a “hellscape” but one that delivered a truly historic achievement.
Miller has known about the Slovak Direct for most of his life. When the route was famously completed in 60 hours in 2000 by Steve House, Scott Backes, and Mark Twight—with no tent, sleeping bags, or heavy gear—their ultra-light push redefined the limits of North American alpine climbing. For Miller, the idea of soloing the route started to feel more realistic after two teams climbed it in under 24 hours in 2022. As climber Matt Cornell described it, the route had become “super chill,” with long stretches of manageable snow.
Encouraged by this reappraisal, Miller set off on June 10 from his basecamp and gained 4,500 feet over 10 miles to reach the base of Denali’s South Face. The crevassed approach, often one of the most dangerous parts, was made safer thanks to a firm snowpack. Although nervous, Miller was acclimated after over a month in the region and felt at ease in the massive alpine terrain.
What made Miller’s ascent stand out was not only the technical achievement but his measured pace and confidence. After just four hours of climbing on day one, he bivouacked on a hanging glacier and rested for 19 hours—an unusual luxury in high-stakes alpine soloing. Favorable weather gave him the rare opportunity to slow down and enjoy the climb.
Equipped with a Grigri, a half rope, and a modest rack, Miller had planned to self-belay up to six pitches but found the route easier than expected. He ended up free soloing nearly everything, describing the climbing as mostly M3 to M4, with occasional moves at M5 or M6. The feared WI6 ice pitches were steep only in short bursts, and the granite was solid. Despite carrying his pack up all the ice sections—which increased difficulty—he never felt overwhelmed. His most nerve-wracking moment came while crossing a snow-covered 5.6 rock slab, where he had to carefully find small edges while swinging his axes into bare stone.
The one pitch he roped up for was the technical crux—a steep A2 section, sometimes freed at M8. Though it felt excessive to bring a full rack and rope for just one aid pitch, Miller was glad for the gear. He jokingly speculated he might be the first person to bring a Grigri up Denali.
After the crux, he climbed one final M4 pitch, joined the upper Cassin Ridge snow slopes, and spent another night out. Feeling the effects of altitude, he bivouacked at 1 a.m. and began moving again at noon the next day. The final push to Denali’s summit took seven hours. He ran into a friend at 14 Camp who shared dinner, then began the long descent back to base camp, arriving at 4 a.m.
Despite the scale and difficulty, Miller discusses the Slovak with surprising calm. To him, it was a fun and rewarding experience, not an epic battle. Still, his achievement hasn’t gone unnoticed in the climbing world. Veteran alpinist Colin Haley described the ascent—especially when paired with Miller’s earlier solo of the French Connection on Begguya—as “super badass,” perhaps historic. Haley placed it just behind Renato Casarotto’s legendary 1984 solo of Denali’s Ridge of No Return.
Mark Twight, one of the original Slovak Direct climbers, had a two-part reaction upon hearing of Miller’s solo: “Holy shit. Of course he did.” It made perfect sense following Miller’s recent solo of the French Connection, which links AI6 terrain on Mount Hunter (Begguya) to M6 rock via the Bibler-Klewin route. That climb, completed in 17.5 hours round trip, featured a narrow, overhanging ice crux that required delicate toolwork in a tight crack.
Earlier this spring, Miller also climbed the Deprivation route on the North Buttress of Begguya with partners, reaching the third ice band, then returned two weeks later to summit the full route. These ascents collectively underscore his exceptional season in the Alaska Range.
Reflecting on the nearly two months spent among Denali’s towering faces and long glacier approaches, Miller said he was not only satisfied with the climbing but also grateful for the experience. Despite the solitary nature of his big objectives, he described the season as very social and enjoyable, with only a few days of loneliness.
“It was a really special time,” he said, already looking forward to the summer ahead after one of the most remarkable solo seasons in recent alpine history.
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