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Accessible Wilderness: Exploring New Zealand’s West Coast Wilderness Trail on Two Wheels

by Alice

New Zealand’s West Coast Wilderness Trail offers a rare blend of remote natural beauty and accessibility, making it a unique cycling experience described by many as “accessibly wild.” Though the phrase sounds contradictory, it perfectly captures the essence of this trail—remote in setting, yet welcoming to cyclists of all skill levels and physical abilities.

The 133km gravel trail stretches from Ross to Greymouth, traversing New Zealand’s sparsely populated West Coast region. Nestled between the glacial Southern Alps and the subtropical Tasman Sea, this area boasts an extraordinary mix of ecosystems—from icy mountain slopes and glacial rivers to dense rainforests and rocky beaches.

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Among those who have embraced the trail is Natalie Gauld, 58, who was diagnosed with motor neurone disease in 2022. Gauld has completed the route several times and even contributed to its accessible ride guide. She expressed how the trail instills a sense of capability and how much she appreciates its isolation.

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The West Coast Wilderness Trail is one of 23 designated Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand. Cyclists can begin the journey from either direction—Ross or Greymouth—and enjoy its gently rolling terrain and well-maintained paths, making it particularly appealing to beginners and diverse riders.

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Cycling enthusiasts often prefer to explore landscapes from the saddle, and one such couple—Paul and his partner—opted for a five-day guided tour with Adventure South NZ. The tour provided not only logistical support but also coordinated stops, meals, and side hikes to scenic spots. Their group included three other riders, all keen to immerse themselves in the West Coast’s rugged beauty without the hassle of planning.

Due to a bridge closure, the tour began just outside Hokitika amid heavy rain, described by their guide Tereza Unzeitigova as “a real West Coast welcome.” The inclement weather soon gave way to serene trails through lush native rainforest—part of the only remaining significant lowland rainforests in New Zealand, home to ancient podocarp trees dating back to the era of Gondwanaland.

Cyclists crossed a boardwalk through the wetlands of Lake Mahinapua, accompanied by a rich natural soundtrack from local bird species such as tūī, bellbirds, royal spoonbills, and more. The group ended the first 20km of the journey back at their accommodations in Hokitika.

That evening, Rob Pieper, host from Adventure South NZ, served a homemade dinner featuring locally sourced ingredients at his off-grid home. He noted the importance of self-reliance in the West Coast due to its geographical isolation, saying that in the event of an earthquake, the region could be cut off for months.

Rob and his wife Col, originally from the Netherlands, not only guide the tours but also cook meals, tend to their property in Ruatapu (a rare white heron habitat), and handle local school transportation. Their passion for the land and lifestyle complements their work with visiting cyclists.

The next day began with a treetop walk offering aerial views of the rainforest, followed by a ride along the tranquil Kaniere water race. Recent improvements have widened parts of this trail, making it more accessible—something Gauld had pointed out before the trip.

After lunch in a converted woolshed prepared by Rob and Col, the group rode along the shores of Lake Kaniere and hiked through the striking Hokitika Gorge, famous for its blue-green glacial waters and prized pounamu (greenstone).

Doctors Nikhil Patel and Anvi Butala, aged 36 and 31 respectively, chose the trail for its ability to pack multiple experiences into a short time. In preparation, Butala trained by repeatedly cycling a local hill. Her effort paid off during the third day’s 400m ascent to Cowboy’s Paradise, an eerie plateau dotted with old structures and bisected by a dusty road. From there, the descent to Kumara was fast and exhilarating.

The group spent the night at the Theatre Royal Hotel, the only fully restored gold miners’ hotel on the West Coast. With its historic charm and rooms whimsically named—such as “King Dick”—the venue added character to the trip.

On the final leg of the trail, Aoraki/Mount Cook came into view beyond beaches strewn with driftwood. This stretch is also home to blue penguins, the smallest penguin species. Blustery coastal winds challenged the cyclists as they neared Greymouth, but for Litza Reed, 53, from Perth, the gusts were no deterrent. Reed rented a hybrid bike for the journey and declared her plans to buy a mountain bike after the experience.

While the ride concluded in Greymouth, the adventure didn’t end there. The group continued to explore the geological marvel of Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, strolled the serene paths of Paparoa National Park, and cycled a final 20km leg to break up the drive back to Christchurch.

The West Coast Wilderness Trail proved to be more than just a scenic route; it was a journey of connection—with nature, with community, and for some, with a renewed sense of self. Whether seasoned cyclists or newcomers, all riders left with a deeper appreciation for the accessible wilds of New Zealand’s West Coast.

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